Below are some issues to look out for, which mean we will need to give your equipment a service:
- Maximise your reception
- The symptoms of poor start device reception
- Things that affect wireless reception
- Recommendation for users experiencing poor device reception
- Advice for specific wireless start device use
- Gate Serving
- The black LED cup is not seated nicely in the hole
- The On/Off switch is hard to get too
- Bent poles
- Battery Holder
- IR Detector
Maximise your reception
The symptoms of poor start device reception include
- Green LED lights taking a while to reset to a solid-state after the race has been saved
- Gun turning off unexpectedly. Note: if out of range for 10 min or more the device turns off to save power as it has assumed that everyone has gone home for the day
- The battery percentage on RaceHQ display as 'NA'
- Delays in getting the 'Start' button to appear on the RaceHQ screen
- Noticeable delays between the gun/device being triggered and the clock on the RaceHQ screen starting.
- Device not starting RaceHQ timer at all
Things that affect wireless reception
In general, wireless devices work best when they have a reasonable line of sight between each other. Things that might hinder this include:
- Metal/aluminium objects/structures such as starters stand, high jump mat shelters, shade shelters
- People crowding around the device or crowds forming within the line of sight
- Antennas not being vertical may cause poor reception; there is an antenna within the start device that is aligned lengthwise. It impedes reception when the device is held horizontally such as being laid down on the ground/flat surface
Recommendation for users experiencing poor device reception
- Ensure that line of sight is maximised as much as possible
- Raise the wireless dongle (the one connected to your computer) antenna as high as possible (above peoples heads ideally) by securing it to to a pole or shelter
- Move the wireless dongle and/or antenna to clear air (not underneath aluminium structured shade shelter)
- Keep the starting device/gun upright/vertical and raised where possible (avoid laying down on the ground, or shielding by starters stands / toolboxes)
- If the gun has been in poor view for some time, give it some time after you bring it back in the line of sight before you attempt to start a race to ensure it has found the finish-line wireless dongle, and that it is ready to send a start signal
Advice for specific wireless start device use
Use with Pistol/Cap starts
- Attach the start device to a raised cradle on a pole or starters stand, so it remains high and in view at all times, then raise the cap gun so that it is close to the start device when the cap is detonated
- Attach the start device to the gun, but make sure it is held in clear view of the finish-line wireless dongle, including between races
Digital starts (using the audio out function, no pistol/caps being used)
- Make sure the starter keeps the device vertical and where possible raised with a clear view of the finish line wireless dongle
- Avoid covering the midsection backing (smooth surface) of the start device with your hands, as this may cover the internal antenna in the start device
If you have the following symptoms:
- No times when athletes run through
- Lots of random times when no one has run through the gates
The reason for this is - the black LED cup is supposed to prevent light from the LED from bouncing around inside the tube. If it does not, then there is sufficient light from the LEDs to make the detector on the opposite side of the board from thinking there are no runnings cutting the beam across the lane from it. Alternatively, if there is too much light, then the sensor is squinting as it is getting flooded with light and triggers multi times as a result.
So the gates need new 8mm standoffs to allow the LED cups to sit in their holes nicely. So in the meantime, can you massage the LED cups to be as best as possible. We need to replace the standoffs or we can send you new standoffs to replace there, which will need some patience and confidence with a screwdriver and mechanical understanding.
Service costs start at $55 per device/unit (hub, start device, gate), this covers labour and basic parts. The service will cover off firmware updates if required, testing and repairing all devices, replacing any worn or damaged parts, replacing the batteries.
If you are experiencing any issues send your hardware via express post (gates are too long as Australia post is 1.05m maximum length) and gates via Pack and Send to
28 Bull Street, Castlemaine, Vic 3450
Express post items are normally next day delivered to our Castlemaine location, serviced that day, then posted express post hat same day, so you should get it the following day (3 days turnaround).
Pack and send will normally take closer to a week with the turnaround. So allow enough time for your gates to be with us in that case.
The black LED cup is not seated nicely in the hole.
Bad LED alignment...notice the gap allowing you to see inside the tube
This is what it should look like with the LED cup seated nicely in through the hole towards the outside of the tube
The outcome from the bad alignment will be "phantom times" or alignment issues with the gate, as the LED is emitting light to the inside of the gate tube as well as to the outside world. It should only be emitting light to the outside world.
Note the LEDs also should have a snug fit, see this image for an example on the left of a loose fit versus the right with a snug fit. This is an older PVC tube versus the new Aluminium tubes.
The On/Off switch is hard to get too
This is an image of a bad switch position.
This is what they should look like. Allowing you to get to it easily with just the soft of your fingertip.
This is caused by excessive heat, which is normally the poles been left in a car in summer. This will need a new pole outer, as you will have alignment issues with this sort of bend. The new Aluminium gate poles will fix this...permanently
Original battery holders are tricky to attach the battery connector if it is pulled out as it is down inside the tube. Also, the battery holders are prone to being rattled around and damage the female connector inside the gate.
The newer version lets you connect and disconnect your battery holder easily via this red connector. This also means if a battery holder is damaged, we can just post you a replacement holder.
If the IR Detector is lifted up off the PCB as it has had some impacts from the gates being tackled or dropped and falling over. The ID detectors on new and serviced gates have an adhesive to prevent this "lifting" of the detector, even with a big hit
This is a good example of the IR Decetor sitting flat and it has the adhesive applied
Please contact us via firstname.lastname@example.org to organise getting your gates serviced