Electronic Starting System - Cap Gun alternative

The use of Cap Guns to start races has long been the standard, however, there is a safer and more efficient way to start a race that is fully integrated into the Timing Solutions system.

This article has the following topics:

• Packages
• Recommended Speaker/Stand set up
• TS speakers specification
• All start device versions are able to be eGun
• Tethered Speaker Set Up
• Wireless Speaker Setup
• Setting channels for your Transmitter and Receivers

NOTE - if you already have a Timing Solutions start device, you only need the speaker/s. If you do not have any of our hardware, these packages below give you all the parts you need. 

If you have time once you use the system, please provide feedback on your speaker system HERE

Packages:

1. Non-Wireless: Speakers connected by cables 

• Straight Start (eg 100m) - v3.0 Start device + 1x wired speaker + TS Hub + Cable price list
• Bend Start (eg 200m & 400m) - v3.0 Start device + 2x speakers + TS Hub +Cable - price list
• Suggest to be used with speaker mounts https://support.timingsolutions.com.au/hc/en-us/articles/54889872758937-New-Start-Speaker-Mount

2. Wireless: Hearing Impaired Light and Wireless Speakers. 

• Note: Wireless speakers are more complex to use and have a risk of interference from RF signals at your location
• Straight Start (eg 100m) - v3.0 Start device + LED/Transmitter + 1x speaker + TS Hub  - price list
• Bend Start (eg 200m & 400m) - v3.0 Start device + LED/Transmitter + 2 x speakers + TS Hub - price list

Recommended Starter/Speaker/Stand set-up

We recommend placing your start device as a minimum on a speaker stand/tripod. 

• This keeps the speakers and cables off the ground avoiding tripping hazards and damage to equipement.
• It allows the speaker to be moved around easily around the ground and also left on the tripod when put in storage. 
• If using wireless speaker configuration keeping the speaker off the ground is very important to increase the wireless reception. The ground absorbs a lot of energy and will result in poor wireless connection between your devices. 

https://support.timingsolutions.com.au/hc/en-us/articles/54889872758937-New-Start-Speaker-Mount

TS speakers specification

• 112 dB beep or bang at 1 m
• 1.2 kgs per unit including batteries
• Speakers are wifi enabled via the LED Flasher unit. They can be cable tethered to each other in a daisy chain and to the smart device using the included 3.5mm audio cable
• Multiple bangs/beeps can be fired to sound a false start from the one-start device
• Use 4 x AA batteries that will give them around 80 hrs of use
• One speaker would be sufficient for a 100m start line, 2-3 would be required for an 8 lane 400m start

All start device versions are able to be eGun

All existing Timing Solutions start devices have the ability for a speaker to be plugged into them via a 3.5mm stereo cable. The start device has a button on it called "Start" when you press that button, the start device will start the timer on the laptop, as well as make a Beep or Bang noise via your connected speaker. Here are the three versions of the start device and how they are plugged into a speaker:

V1.0 Start device

Version 2.0 Start device

V3.0 Start device

Note; the start devices don't have amplification built-in. So the speaker you use will need a lot of amplification for the start device to make a loud enough sound.

Tethered Speaker Set Up

The steps to connecting the start device to the speaker are as follows:

1. Connect the audio cable (provided with your speaker) to the audio out socket on the start device.

2. With the other end of the cable plug it into the start speaker

3. Connect your start device as you normally would, once in the "race screen" and the start button is on the screen, make sure you start speaker/s are turned on, then press the start button on the start device.

Note - To change the start sound being made by the start device open up the settings in your RaceHQ application and select Bang or Beep

You can also turn "Off" the microphone sensitivity so that the internal microphone of the start device doesn't accidentally start a race if it's knocked or dropped etc

Wireless Speaker Setup

If you are looking for a wireless speaker set up (no cables between speakers) then here is some more information about the latest V3.0 wireless start device and wireless speakers.

TS Speaker specification:

• 112 dB beep or bang at 1 m
• 1.2 kgs per unit including batteries
• Speakers are wifi enabled via the LED Flasher unit. They can be cable tethered to each other in a daisy chain and to the start device using the included 3.5mm audio cable
• Multiple bangs/beeps can be fired to sound a false start from the one start device
• Use 4 x AA batteries that will give them around 80 hrs of use
• One speaker would be sufficient for a 100m start line, 2-3 would be required for an 8 lane 400m start

If you do not have a starters stand then something like this tripod will be handy from Jaycar

 This is how it works...

1. The start device top left plug with the antenna symbol connects to the start control via a 3.5mm Audio cable.

The Audio cable supplies power and also the sound from the start device to the Transmitter unit and LED array.

2. Once the transmitter unit is connected to the start device, the start device can be turned on. If you turn on the start device then plug in the transmitter unit, it will turn the start device off.

3. Turn the speaker on (if you get some loud banging speaker noise, please press the push to talk button on your start device to get it to sync with the speaker and settle it down)

4. To transmit noise from the buttons or voice like "On your marks get set ...", then you need to press the talk button on the start device, located at the bottom right side with the person speaking icon. When you press this button the start device's green LED will blink with a  red light mixed too. This will blink for 12 seconds, at which time it will transmit your voice commands and your start button beep/bang noise.

Note there is an input for a mic, if you have a lapel microphone, you can connect that so you don't need to talk to the start device. This will give a better sound and less handling of the start device noise.

5. After 12 seconds is up the red/green blinking light will go back to just green and you won't be able to transmit any voice or start sounds.

6. The speaker should also flash its green LED at the front of the amplifier case when the start is transmitted as per the Push to Talk transmitting mode (step 4 above). Also, the green LED array on the transmitter will also flash when the start signal is transmitted. The speaker LED is for any hearing-impaired athletes, while the LED array on the transmitter is for the manual time kept at the finish line.

7. The Transmitter needs to be installed on something tall (starters stand) with the antenna nice and tall. The speakers should also have a good line of sight to this transmitter with their antenna nice and tall too.

8. You can have multiple speakers talking to one transmitter. However, if you have multiple transmitters for front and back straight scenarios then you can tune the transmitter and speakers to be on different channels to prevent crosstalk.

Setting channels for your Transmitter and Receivers

If you have multiple LED Flasher/transmitter units and wifi speakers to look after a front straight and a back straight, you may need to set up different channels for the group of LED Flasher/transmitter and X speakers. 

What you will need:

1. Download the latest RaceHQ application - here

2. A USB Mini cord-like what is used for your timing hub/dongle

3. Your single LED Flasher/transmitter unit

4. The X number of speakers you wish to pair to your LED Flasher Unit only

The logic...you are about to change the channel from the default of 1 to another channel. You are going to do this only on the individual devices you want to talk with each other. The process means they will no longer be on the default frequency and no longer be able to talk to the default devices you may have. So it is important to mark/identify these devices as being different and not mix them up...otherwise, they will not be able to talk with the default devices you may have. You can come back and change their frequency/channel back to the default if you need to at a later stage with this same application etc.

So the steps are:

1. Start up the RaceHQ and select the Remote Audio

2. Plug in your USB mini cord to the laptop and to the LED Flasher/Transmitter unit, also plug the Start Device into the LED/Flasher and turn the start device on. The start device powers the LED Flasher/Transmitter unit, so it has the power to be programmed

3. Press the connect button...it should then go green (you may need to select the correct comm port)

4. Click on a frequency other than what the default is...you should choose one further away from the default

5. Press the Write to Flasher Module

6. You should get a message saying this is done

7. Press the Disconnect button up next to the Green circle

8. Unplug the LED Flasher/Transmitter unit

9. Plug in your first speaker

10. Press the Connect button at the top and you may need to select the available comm port

11. Then make sure your correct frequency is selected again...same frequency as step 4 above

12. Then press Write to Horn Module

13. Press the Disconnect button once you see the message saying this is done

14. Unplug the wireless speaker

Now before you proceed further to do a test with your start device, new channel LED Flasher/Transmitter and new channel wifi speaker. Note you do not need to be in the race screen or connected to RaceHQ, just turn them on and do a test.

Assuming that is all going well, continue the programming of your remaining wifi speakers if needed. Write on the decal next to the USB plug-in area what frequency you went with on all your devices. Then consider putting something more visual on these devices to distinguish them from your default devices.